Preface
A Shepherd of the Pyrenees became bored and he descended one day from the mountains and reached the Mediterranean. There he fell in love with a mermaid and procreated with her the Empordà. Thus the legend says. It seems that shepherd and mermaid not only had procreated, but they had cooked too. The kitchen of the Empordà is diverse; one of its characteristic features is the combination of ingredients from the sea and from the mountains.
The following recipes are only a tiny fraction of the dishes of the area.Each recipe was selected for their local authenticity and the ease of duplicating the dishes in northern regions. And, if the specific ingredients are not readily available, they can be replaced with similar products.
All i oli empordanesa
Beside the traditional all i oli, the classic garlic mayonnaise, there is a
great number of varieties. The all i oli empordenesa may be found under many
names.
Ingredients:
3 cloves of garlic,
1/8 litre Olive oil,
l egg yolk,
l teaspoon of mustard,
salt,
l apple or pear.
The cloves of garlic are peeled and crushed in salt. Make a fine paste of the garlic, salt, mustard and egg yolk. Add the oil slowly – drop by drop - and beat with the food mixer until mayonnaise arises. Roast the apple or the pear in the oven and crush it to a puree. Let it cool; stir it through a sieve into the mayonnaise.
Botifarra - the Catalan sausage
Botifarra is a kind of sausage, popular with the people of the Empordà. Often it is purchased at the butcher.But we found a classical recipe to create yourself. This sausage can be made easy and then one will know then what sausage is:
1 kilo
chopped meagre pork,
200 grammes lean bacon,
Four cloves of garlic,
Cinnamon, oregano, salt, pepper and calf intestine skin.
Chop the bacon and the
pork and mix it. Season the meat to taste with the crushed garlic, salt, pepper, oregano and
cinnamon.
The filling should rest in the refrigerator well
covered for three days. Mix two times daily and cover again. Fill the intestine skin with the mixture making knots
every 15 centimetres with a cord to produce sausages of this size.
Prick a puncture into
every sausage with a fine pin.
Place the sausages into hot water, and maintain a smooth fire without boiling
for 30 minutes.
When the sausages have cooled, they can be roasted.
Calamares are not naturally in the form of rings, despite the frequent presentation "a l a Romana", where they are cut into rings and fried.There are other preparations that deserve more attention. One of these is Calamares in their ink.
We get the Calamares freshly from the fishing hall.The preparation calls for a few ingredients and courage for the cook to prepare this popular recipe.
Ingredients for four
persons:
l kg of Calamares,
1 onion,
2 cloves of garlic,
2 tablespoons breadcrumbs (or abraded, dry white bread),
1/2 glass white wine
parsley,
olive oil,
salt.
Preparation:
Wash and clean the calamares; divert the skin and remove the intestines.Set
aside the bags with the ink aside.
Put a deep pot on the fire, and heat four tablespoons of oil.
Peel onion and garlic, cut in small pieces and put them into the pot.
When they begin to turn light brown, add the Calamares and turn them until they
are evenly browned.
After about five minutes add the breadcrumbs and the wine as well as a glass of
water to cook about 15 minutes at middle flame.
Meanwhile mix the ink from the bag with the finely chopped parsley in a mortar
and season with salt.Pour over the Calamares and let it simmer once again for 10
minutes.
Serve with a fresh white bread and a light rosé.
Fish soup of Bacalao
(codfish)
Ingredients:
500 grammes of Bacalao (codfish);
500 grammes potatoes;
3 to 4 big ripe tomatoes;
4 cloves of garlic;
3/4 litre fish bouillon;
50 gr (5
tablespoons) olive oil;
Parsley;
l chilli pod;
salt,
pepper.
Bacalao is often served
here as a cold fish salad. But this recipe shall prove to you that codfish can
also be the basis for an excellent soup.
We already let cut the Bacalao into dies during the purchase at the market. We
soak the fish pieces in water for at least 24 hours.The bowl with cold water should be changed frequently.
We take the fish from the water and let it drain well. The potatoes are peeled,
cut in l cm big dies and mixed in a pot with the fish. We drop the tomatoes in
boiling water, in order to skin the tomatoes, and thence pass them through a
sieve. The chilli pod is cut up, crushed in a mortar and stirred into the tomato
puree with the clove of garlic crushed in salt. We distribute this mixture with
the olive oil about the potatoes and the fish and let it stew 10 minutes with
weak heat. Now we pour little by little the bouillon. The washed parsley is
chopped and half of it added to the soup.
After the soup boils for approximately 20 minutes on a weak fire, we add the
remaining parsley, add salt and pepper to taste, and serve this delicacy in
preheated deep plates. Good appetite!
Trout
Catalan style - " Truites a la Catalana"
Our poets and composers
enthused about the lively brown trout. Farm raising and deep-freezing technique
have made trout more accessible for daily consumption, but, alas this form of
trout tastes common, too. In our area, however, we have fresh trout (in Catalan
"truita" and "trucha" in Spanish) available. They originate
in the rivers of the Empordà, are of excellent quality and also very
economical. This is due presumably to the circumstance of the market; Catalans
do not honour freshwater fish as they do fish from the sea. In the market hall
in the centre of Figueres (always worth a visit) and at other local fish outlets
trout is very often offered for about 450 Pesetas per kilo. For most of the
regional recipes the trout is roasted in lard ("mantega de cerdo"),
which is available in any butcher shops.
Ingredients:
4 trout;
1 coffee cup of flour,
2 cloves of garlic,
parsley,
olive oil,
salt,
4 soup spoons of vinegar,
lard,
2 onions,
2 lemons.
The fishes are rolled in
flour and roasted in the lard about fifteen minutes at medium fire.
Meanwhile we crush in a mortar the peeled cloves of garlic with parsley, salt
and little cumin and mix the mass with vinegar. Peel the onions; cut them small
and roast gold-brown in olive oil. Add the mass from the mortar and heat for
five minutes.
Serve with lemon slices and dry white wine.
Ingredient:
6 medium-sized Gambas (Prawns) per person; Garlic, red paprika, olive oil.
The Gambas are washed
under water and placed in boiling water. When the water boils again, take the
Gambas out, let them drain on a sieve and stack into small, fireproof clay
bowls. Add three cloves of garlic and a piece of paprika. heat up the olive oil
(per person approx. 6 EL) and pour it over the Gambas.
Shift the clay forms into a pre-heated oven. When the garlic begins to tan, the
dish is ready.Serve with white
bread.A light between-meals snack
or a delicious starter.
Oca
amb peras - goose with pears
The Catalan kitchen is
extremely courageous concerning the combination of the ingredients. A good
example is this recipe for goose with pears, the classical high day dish of the
province of Girona:
Ingredients:
A goose,
8 pears,
l big skinned tomato,
2-4 peeled cloves of garlic according to taste,
2 onions,
50 Gr. pine nuts,
50 Gr. raisins.
6 soup spoons olive oil.
50 Gr. butter,
milk,
sugar,
salt,
cinnamon,
l bay leaf,
chopped parsley,
aniseed liquor.
We cook a gravy from the
wings and neck of the goose.
The goose is portioned in eight pieces, rub plenty salt on the goose pieces and
brown in oil. When the bird takes colour, add chopped garlic, the bay leaf and a
small cut onion, pour a part of the goose gravy on and let it simmer covered
over a small flame.
In the second pan we stew in butter with some milk a chopped onion, the tomato,
parsley, pine nuts, raisins and a chopped clove of garlic. Powder with cinnamon
and stir.
Peel and halve the pears, remove the heart and put them into the second pan. Let
simmer with a shot of aniseed liquor and three tablespoons goose gravy on a low
fire twenty minutes.
We decorate the pears in a fireproof form around the goose. The sauce of the
goose is sieved and that of the pears, un-sieved is poured over the goose. We
place the fireproof form into a pre-heated oven for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile we brown two tablespoons sugar with a little water in another pan.
Drizzle the sugar and water mixture over the pears.
Ready.
The kitchen of the Empordà, known for the combinations of products of the sea
and the mountains, presents a very simple recipe, easy to cook, and very typical
too.
Ingredients:
500 gr cockles, 2 cloves of garlic, l green or red paprika pod, a chicken of
about 800 gr, l medium-sized onion, 1/4 kg tomatoes, l cup olive oil, l glass
red wine, salt.
Cut up the chicken in small pieces and rub it well with salt and garlic. When
the oil is hot in the casserole, add the chicken pieces and let brown to a
golden-brown. Cut the onion and the paprika pod into small pieces to let it
roast with the chicken. Skin the tomatoes, cut in small pieces, remove the
hearts and add to the chicken. Cook smoothly let and pour the wine little by
little. Cook the cockles in water with salt (approx. 10 minutes).
Put the chicken into a preheated bowl, drape the cockles around, pour the Sauce
... and explain to your guests the origins of the empordanese kitchen: a mermaid
left the Mediterranean, fell in love with a shepherd from the Pyrenees and...
Stuffed Rabbit with
Catalan Sanfaina - Conejo Relleno y Samfaina Catalana.
Ingredients for six
persons:
1 rabbit (approx. l 1/4 kg), rabbit liver and kidney,
spinach or chard leaves,
100 g white bread without crust,
1/4 l milk.
For the sauce: onions,
carrots, celeries, Brandy and white wine, 1 l chicken broth.
For the Samfaina: 2
aubergines, 2 green peppers; 2 sweet red peppers, 2 zucchini, 2 chopped onions,
250 g fresh diced tomatoes, 10 spoons Olive oil.
Dressing:
Clean the rabbit and disconnect the forelegs, expand the rabbit and fill with
spinach or chard leaves.
Then, add a mixture of the meat of the front legs with drained white bread,
which was dipped into milk.
Then a layer of the liver and kidney.
Now the rabbit is rolled up, held together with a cord and put into the oven for
approx 50 minutes at 200°
For the sauce the
remaining intestines are heated up with the small cut vegetables in a deep pan
for 10 minutes. Add Brandy and white wine, and after stirring in the chicken
broth, let simmer over a small flame 45 minutes.
For the Sanfaina the
vegetable is separately browned in a pan. Then stew the onions in the same pan,
add the tomato cubes, finally the other already sautéed vegetable. Cooking with
low heat for 5 minutes.
To serve the rabbit, in
the traditional manner, it should be cut into round panes and placed into the
middle of the plate. Around is draped a portion Sanfaina and sauce...
Huevos a la marinera (Eggs, sailor's
style)
According to the legend many dishes with the addition "a la marinera“ owe their origin to physical needs of fishermen’s families. When the catch was lean or the weather for fish unsuitable, only what was available came onto the table. In the case of our following recipe the catch was especially bad. Only some mussels could the brave fisherman take away from the rock. The sister’s henswere crouching deep in their nests on this Tramontana day and proved especially good for laying. The brother-in-law still had a piece of bacon from the last slaughtering. One brought spices from the garden of the sister-in-law, and the brother, a vintager provided the wine.
Ingredients: 6 eggs; 2
dozen of mussels; 50 g diced bacon; 1 chopped onion; 1 herb bundle from bay
leaf, parsley and thyme; 1 soup spoon flour; 1/4 l wine; 6 soup spoons olive
oil; Wine, vinegar, salt and pepper.
Preparation: Clean the
mussels thoroughly under water; remove the beards. Throw away any opened mussels
since they are probably spoiled. Heat up a glass of wine with a little vinegar
in a pot and place the mussels, covered, over a fire for a few minutes until the
shells open themselves. Retain the juice.Remove
the shells from the mussels. Also throw away mussels which cannot be opened
easily. Meanwhile cook the eggs for ten minutes. peel and halve the eggs.
Put bacon and onions in a fireproof clay pot over a small flame. Add a
tablespoon of flour and pour a glass wine. Season with salt, pepper and the herb
bundle, let boil, and add mussels as well as the reserved juice. Than you put
the eggs in and let steep for a few minutes in the sauce. Remove the herb bundle
and serve the dish with white bread in the clay pot.
Lomo
de cerdo con leche - pork loin in milk
Ingredients (for four to
five persons):
800 grammes pork loin; 100 grammes pork lard; 1/8 litre milk; two cloves of
garlic, salt and pepper
Rub the meat (in one
piece) with a clove of garlic that was crushed in salt. Also heat in a second
pan the lard and another crushed clove of garlic. Brown the meat on all sides
until it is properly browned. Pour in the milk and season with salt and pepper.
Char the meat on a small flame, about ten minutes; it should be still rosé
inside. Cut it into thin panes and serve.
Paella
valenciana mixta
The Paellera, a round
iron pan with handles, gave its name to the dish Paella. Although it is
considered as a national dish, there are an immense number of different
preparations. Some purists might consider our recipe, a mixed Paella with meat
and fish, indeed as untypical, but at the coast it is quite popular.
Ingredients:
500 g rice; 1 cut up chicken; 300 g pork ribs (costellos); 6 small Botifarras
(sausage); 100 g smoked ham, cut in die; 300 g. Cuttlefish; 12 Gambas (prawns);
24 mussels; 200 g deep-frozen peas, 2 peeled tomatoes; l chopped onion; 4 peeled
cloves of garlic; l green and a red paprika; Parsley; l laurel leaf. salt; pepper;
saffron; paprika; two chicken bouillon cubes.
Cook the mussels in a glass of red wine until they open
themselves. Sieve the liquid and boil it with the bouillon cubes, thyme, the bay
leaf, some saffron and water to make two litres of gravy.
In the Paellera roast, in plenty of olive oil, the chicken pieces with the pork
ribs. Add ham cubes and the Botifarras and brown well.
Add the cuttlefish, the cut paprika sheets, gambas, tomatoes and onion.
Add some gravy. Stir well and constantly, when the gravy is absorbed, pour in
additional gravy.
Add the peas after approximately 10 minutes.
This recipe with the
strange name comes from the small town of Mura in the province of Barcelona. It
can be served as both a starter or for a picnic.
Ingredients: l kg
potatoes; 2 onions; 4 tomatoes; 125 g green olives; 125 g black olives; 300 g
codfish (Bacalao); 1 red paprika pod; l green paprika pod; Wine vinegar; Olive
oil; Salt; 5 thin panes of raw hams; four panes of four different sausage sorts.
A small glass silver onions.
Preparing: The codfish is watered overnight.
Then cook the potatoes and cut into not too thin panes.
Stone olives and cut the onions into thin rings.
The tomatoes are briefly blanched in hot water. The tomatoes should be peeling
and cutting into small cubes.
Remove the heart from the
paprika sheets and cut the vegetable into thin slices.
Pour everything into a bowl, salt, add olive oil and some vinegar and mix until
a compact mass comes out.
The Pote-Poli is overturned onto a plate and spread at the edges beautifully and
smoothly. We place the ham and sausage panes above that and garnish with the
silver onions.
Beer or a strong red wine fits well.
Ingredients
for four persons: 4 hake fillets (Merluza), fresh or deep-frozen. 1/4 litre
white wine, 1/8 litre bouillon, 1 onion, 1 bay leaf, 3 cloves, parsley, 1/2
teaspoon dried tarragon leaves, skin of half a lemon, salt, sugar. 2 yolks,
3 tablespoons lemon-juice, 2 teaspoon food starch, 75 gr. Margarine, parsley,
4 lemon panes for the garnish.
Boil wine and bouillon in a pot.
Peel onion and lard with cloves and bay leaf.
Wash and dry the parsley.
Add the onion and the lemon skin to the broth and cook ten minutes covered. Let
the hake fillets simmer in the broth fifteen minutes (not to cook).
Remove fillets and to set up on a preheated plate.
Add yolk, lemon-juice, food starch and salt in cup to
mix and than add to the broth. Pour the broth over the hake fillets and into the
pre-heated oven for four minutes.
Sopa de
Rape -Monkfish soup
The monkfish is the most
popular fish of the coast. The meat resembles a lobster. It is a bonefish
without fish bones with an oversized, flat head, which the local housewives use
for the gravy.
Ingredients:
l Rape of approx. l kilo; l bay leaf, thyme, Oregano. 2 litres water, l bouillon
cube. 2 ripe, peeled tomatoes; l small chopped onion. 3 cloves of garlic, 6
almonds and six hazelnuts. 7-8 olive oil tablespoon. Saffron, nutmeg apple,
cinnamon, pepper and salt. 125 grammes toasted white bread.
The fish head is cooked in the water with the bouillon
cube, the bay leaf, thyme and oregano half approximately an hour over a small
fire.
Suquet, the jewel of the kitchen of the Empordà
One of the typical dishes
of the area is the "Suquet", a hot pot, of fish and potatoes. Today
the older, retired fishermen amuse themselves with their small boats and nets on
the sea, and use their luck-of-the-catch for their suquet, and enjoy themselves
at the beach, mostly in the off-season.
In order to cook a good Suquet, two things are especially important: Only
rockfish should be in the casserole and the fire must be very hot. Therefore the
casserole in which the Suquet is prepared should be, if possible, the typical
"Cassola catalana"; thick, spongy iron, which transmits the heat well
and holds it especially long. The dish is served in the casserole to the table.Buy a good pan, as a souvenir, as enrichment of the kitchen cupboard or
as a little present.Then you can
explain to the neighbour that one can prepare Mediterranean fish only with this
kind of pan...
We need:
Red scorpion-fish
(Rascasse), monkfish, St. Peter fish. 1 kg potatoes, garlic, olive oil, tomatoes,
grilled bread. Fish liver of the monkfish.
"Where
is the spice herb?" wonders the hobby cook. Or: "In order to get all
three kinds of fresh fish on the same day with my fishmonger, I need the luck of
a lotto millionaire." Tranquillo:Suquet
can be prepared with many other local fish, and so we are in the same situation
as the fishermen, use what is available from the day’s catch. And, it does not
need spice herbs.
Preparation:
Brown the garlic in the casserole with olive oil. Add
the peeled tomatoes, then the potatoes (peeled too) and the monkfish.
After letting them brown, cover with hot water. When the water boils, add the
scorpion-fish (in pieces) and the St. Peter fish. Let cook about twenty minutes
over a strong fire. When the potatoes are tender, before taking the casserole
from the fire, add a mixture of chopped garlic and the fish liver as well as the
grilled bread slices.
There are simple things
of life that so often provide a lot of fun; unfortunately these simple things
are often expensive.
We need six eggs, and salt; three
tablespoons of the best olive oil or truffle oil and 1/2 kilos Langoustines
(king prawns).
We cook the washed Langoustines in abundant water some minutes, free then their
meat and cut it into small pieces. Beat the eggs and salt and add the
Langoustine pieces. We heat up the oil in a pan and add the mass of eggs and
Langoustines. When the bottom takes colour, we turn over the tortilla, let it
roast gold-brown and bring now to the table.
You can garnish the tortilla with the claws of the
Langoustines. White bread fits always, in the same way as a cold rose.
The Quail (Spanish: codorniz) is the smallest representative of the game poultry. Its meat is aromatic and tender. One obtains it fresh daily in the butcher's shops.
Ingredients
for four persons:
Eight quails, 40 Gr. butter, 200 Gr. Of white and blue grapes,1/10 litre. White
wine and grape juice, l teaspoon food starch, salt, pepper.
Preparing:
Wash the quails, let dry and rub in salt and pepper. Brown them around 15 minutes
in 30 Gr. heated up margarine, let scatter the remaining margarine in small
pieces over the birds and let melt.
Meanwhile wash the bunches
of grapes and drain them. Pick the berries off of the stems, skin them and take
out the stones.Set aside the warm quails. Cook the roasting juices with wine
and grape juice. Mix food starch with some water, and add it to the sauce and
stir. Add grapes and let it boil briefly. Pour the sauce over the quails and
serve.
We recommend green salad and a dry white wine as a supplement.
The
Zarzuela - A fishing opera
Originally a Zarzuela was a Spanish singing opera with sung and spoken scenes;
In the royal pleasure palace "La Zarzuela" this form of opera was
performed for the first time in the 17th century.
The fish in the Zarzuela, the classical Spanish fish hot pot, does not sing and
speak indeed, however, if they are prepared well, our satisfied stomach may sing
joyfully.
If the Zarzuela is to succeed, there is only one secret, and that secret is
equally valid for all fish dishes: The fish must be first quality and very
fresh!How one finds
this out is not at all so difficult.In
Emporda this is easier than elsewhere.First, the fish should still have all his scales, if that is
not the case, it is from inferior quality or is not fresh. If the gills have a
strong red colour, the fish is good. If the gills are, however, only pink or
pale red, it is not the catch of the day. The eyes are the third criterion. The
fish must look at us so to speak. If its eyes are already glassy, the fish is
not fresh.Finally one can feel the
fish; if the meat is already soft, the fish had spent some days on ice or in a
refrigeration unit. Seafood, such as Gambas (Prawns) or Langoustines must not
show under any circumstances a black colour, because this means that they were
first deep-frozen and then they were thawed out and it has been a few days since
the thawing.
We need for four persons:
Onion, tomatoes, parsley, garlic, olive oil, white wine, 4 pieces monkfish
(Rape), 4 pieces hake (Merluza), 4 pieces of red sea dragon (Escorpora), 4
Gambas, 4 Langoustines, 4 Calamares cut into 16 pieces, 16 clams, salt and
dressing pepper.
Brown the onions, tomatoes, garlic and parsley in a casserole
in olive oil. Add the monkfish and the calamares and let them roast. Add than
a glass of white wine and a little flour to lace the sauce.
If you are unable to find all the requested fish types, or they are not as fresh
as needed, you can substitute other similar fish without problems.
Decades ago one knew the
onions only as a spice ingredient.In
northern Spain one began with the production of vegetable onions. Today the
onion is next to the tomatoe as the most eaten vegetable. And Spain is Europe's
largest producer of vegetable onions. Onions provide a pleasant, mild taste with
their fine-fibrous, thick and juicy meat. They can be cut when raw, and even
eaten raw without breaking out in tears now. Different varieties of onions are
classified through taste and application within the onion family:
1) Reina de Abril... is
the earliest onion variety to grow in Spain. Harvested in April (thus the name
April queen). It is a mild form and golden.
2) Babosa ... becomes harvested at the end of April, or the beginning of May and
appertains thus also to the early sorts. Under normal conditions it can be
stored until August, has a more pronounced flavour, is outside golden and inside
white and /or yellowish, very juicy and rather a little tender.
3) Liria. As an average-early variety it is called also Medio Grano, harvested
from middle June, to the beginning of July and can be stored until September. It
is golden yellow, inside yellowish and ball-shaped outside.
4) The most popular, most important and latest of all onion sorts is the Grano,
also Grano de Oro and/or "Valenciana" and is harvested in July and
August. It is milder than the Barbosa and a little sharper than the Liria. It
can be stored up to eight months, its form is balloon-like, the colour cupreous.
The onion belongs to the
vegetable antibiotics. It protects against infectious diseases, adjusts the
digestion and precludes illnesses of the airways. If our onioning has not
boarded up completely your appetite, we add the recipe of a local simple onion
dish: Onion tortilla.
Ingredients:
2 medium-sized vegetable onions; 2 eggs; 1 tablespoon Olive oil; Salt; red
Pepperoni; chopped parsley.
Preparing:
Peel onions and cut in fine stripes, roast in oil bright yellow with a little
salt. Whisk eggs with some salt on a plate and add the roasted onions. Place the
mass into the pan with olive oil and let the tortilla take on a light colour on
both sides.If the taste of the oil
does not agree with you, you can brown the tortilla in margarine. Scatter
chopped parsley over it and add pepperoni according to taste.
Catalan Cream is never omitted from our region’s restaurant’s bill of fare. Normally it is served in small brown clay ramekins. In many shops these small bowls are available as a set, together with a round iron with handle for burning the sugar. If you do not have the handy crema Catalan iron, a new clean putty will serve almost as well.
Ingredients:
4 cups of milk
2 tablespoons food starch
10 table spoons of sugar and 8eggs.
Heat up the milk in a pan or a pot over small
fire. In a
dish beat the yolk, 6 tablespoons of sugar and 2 tablespoons of food starch
with a whisk, until the mixture is a soft cream without lumps. Add
the cream slowly, with constant whisk action, to the milk, so that the yolk
does not coagulate. Let cook 5 minutes
gently, while continuing the agitating. Fill
the cream into the small clay bowls; if the “official” ramekins are unavailable
any small heatproof bowls will do. Put
the Crema in the refrigerator to cool off. Then
strew a little sugar on the Crema and burn the sugar with the very hot iron,
so that the delicate brown sugar coat appears.
Bon appetite.
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